The island of Pag is a 63 km long and 5 km wide island of the Adriatic Sea, covering an area of 284 square kilometres. It belongs to the Kvarner Islands and is a part of the Velebit Mountain, separated from the mainland by a channel. It was inhabited as early as in the Neolithic Age. Over the centuries, the island has passed a number of rulers – Illyrians, Croatian kings, Italians and Austrians. However, the Venetian rule in the 13th and 14th centuries has a crucial effect on the development of the island. As a result of historical upheavals, the capital of the island changed its location twice. The town of Pag was always interesting to its holders because of the possibility of salt production and trade.

The foundations of the present town were laid in 1443 with the permission of the Venetian Senate, most probably after plans by Juraj Dalmatinac, a famous architect and sculptor of the time. The town plan follows the traditional principles common in the Mediterranean belt: the town is divided into four districts, the main square is in the centre and the streets and follow the gridiron plan. Pag was surrounded by town walls on three sides facing the mainland. The portal of the parish church of the Assumption in the main square shows sculptures of patron saints of each town district above the lunette. Another important building in the main square is the Rector’s Palace, erected in the 15th century. It was the seat of rectors appointed by Venice and the Noblemen’s Council.


Later it served as the seat of island and town authorities until 1905. Pag has several preserved family houses and palazzi with Renaissance facades, portals and coats-of-arms of the local aristocratic families. On a narrow isthmus to the south of the town there are several old salt storehouses, some of dating back to the 16th century. An important figure in Croatian history is Pag-born Jesuit Bartul Kašić – writer, translator and the author of the first Croatian grammar book (1599).

Today, Pag has a population of about 9,000. The main sources of employment are the salt and cheese industries and tourism.


PAG NEEDLEPOINT LACE appeared at the same time as the laces of the eastern Mediterranean, but experienced a very different development. The traditional costume of the island of Pag confirms the interpretation that the needlepoint lacemaking is an autochthonous cultural treasure of the Croatian Adriatic. It is based on knowledge of the skills of the so-called white embroidery: cutwork (izriz), woven hemstitch (rasplet), and holly stitch (priplet). Individual threads of the foundation are drawn or cut and the remaining threads are then twisted and crossed, resulting in gossamer-like, decorative openwork. The fronts of women’s white linen shirts and the headgear were decorated with the so-called paški teg (teg = female handwork). It is an ornament in the form of the original reticella, made on a square space slit into the cloth and filled with threads of crossed cobweb design. It is geometrical in form and made without a drawn pattern. The variety of shirt ornaments made by using the paški teg technique is achieved through the combination of just a few standard, strictly geometrical motifs (small hollow or filled circlets, smaller or bigger circles, semicircles, triangles, rhombi, square or triangular leaves, zigzag stripes and the regular or irregular four-leaf rosette, always outlined with small circles), alternating in concentric circles on a reticular foundation.




In the early twentieth century, the traditional costume came out of everyday use, which brought intensive production to a halt. At the same time, vocational schools were founded, such as the Lace-making school, established in Pag in 1906. In this school, lace-making was taught based on the Pag lacemakers’ skills used to make traditional costume ornaments, only these skills were here used for the production of self-standing decorative objects. This work method only is called Pag lace. It was used to make tablecloths, doilies, handkerchiefs and decorations for parts of clothing – objects used in the bourgeois society – as well as sacral textile.

The decorative elements and production techniques of these objects were skilfully transferred from traditional costumes and have retained their strict, Renaissance geometry to the present. The women of Pag accept this work as a source of additional income, which is often the only certain earning in the meagre island economy. They still invest utmost patience and creativity into their handwork and many of them can be called true artists.


Lace-making on the island of Pag stagnated after the closure of schools and workshops, but individual work has persisted to the present day and maintained the continuity of an autochthonous skill. In the recent years, lace-making in Pag is practiced mainly by women over 60. To preserve the tradition, a one-year lacemaking course was initiated in Pag in 1995 and is attended every year by an impressive number of young and middle-aged Pag women who will hopefully continue the tradition of their mothers and grandmothers. Since 1998, the “Pag Lacemakers’ Society Frane Budak” has also taken care of the promotion of the Pag lace-making as an important segment of the Croatian cultural heritage.


The making of Pag lace requires a small tightly-stuffed semicircular pillow, a drawn pattern, a needle and white thread, and steady and always clean hands. The pattern with small holes outlining the contours of the foundation is fastened to the pillow. A thread is then drawn over the pattern in the shape of cobweb, or the so-called free reticellas. Each radiating branch is crossed with the needle and thread, which results in a firm skeleton. Around these threads and starting from the centre, the pattern is buttonhole stitched between the radiating branches of the net and individual decorative motives are built up in concentric circles. As mentioned above, the lace has a strict geometrical pattern prescribed by tradition, which means that the same ornament is found in the original reticella on an old cotton shirt of a folk costume and the free reticella of the decorative doily made today.

Pag lace is a decorative element appearing first in traditional textiles, and later as an independent decorative object. While the production work methods remained true to the canon of its origin – the strict Renaissance geometrical design, its application changed over time: from the ornament on the linen clothing of island women, to the interior decoration of bourgeois houses. These changes made it possible to survive to the present day.

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