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The island of Pag is a 63 km long and 5 km wide island of the
Adriatic Sea, covering an area of 284 square kilometres. It belongs to the
Kvarner Islands and is a part of the Velebit Mountain, separated from the
mainland by a channel. It was inhabited as early as in the Neolithic Age. Over
the centuries, the island has passed a number of rulers – Illyrians, Croatian
kings, Italians and Austrians. However, the Venetian rule in the 13th and 14th
centuries has a crucial effect on the development of the island. As a result of
historical upheavals, the capital of the island changed its location twice. The
town of Pag was always interesting to its holders because of the possibility of
salt production and trade. |
The foundations of the present town were laid in 1443 with the permission of
the Venetian Senate, most probably after plans by Juraj Dalmatinac, a famous
architect and sculptor of the time. The town plan follows the traditional
principles common in the Mediterranean belt: the town is divided into four
districts, the main square is in the centre and the streets and follow the
gridiron plan. Pag was surrounded by town walls on three sides facing the
mainland. The portal of the parish church of the Assumption in the main square
shows sculptures of patron saints of each town district above the lunette.
Another important building in the main square is the Rector’s Palace, erected
in the 15th century. It was the seat of rectors appointed by Venice and the
Noblemen’s Council. |
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Later it served as the seat of island and town authorities until 1905. Pag has
several preserved family houses and palazzi with Renaissance facades, portals
and coats-of-arms of the local aristocratic families. On a narrow isthmus to
the south of the town there are several old salt storehouses, some of dating
back to the 16th century. An important figure in Croatian history is Pag-born
Jesuit Bartul Kašić – writer, translator and the author of the first Croatian
grammar book (1599).
Today, Pag has a population of about 9,000. The main sources of employment are
the salt and cheese industries and tourism.
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PAG NEEDLEPOINT LACE appeared at the same time as the laces of
the eastern Mediterranean, but experienced a very different development. The
traditional costume of the island of Pag confirms the interpretation that the
needlepoint lacemaking is an autochthonous cultural treasure of the Croatian
Adriatic. It is based on knowledge of the skills of the so-called white
embroidery: cutwork (izriz), woven hemstitch (rasplet), and holly stitch
(priplet). Individual threads of the foundation are drawn or cut and the
remaining threads are then twisted and crossed, resulting in gossamer-like,
decorative openwork. The fronts of women’s white linen shirts and the headgear
were decorated with the so-called paški teg (teg = female handwork). It is an
ornament in the form of the original reticella, made on a square space slit
into the cloth and filled with threads of crossed cobweb design. It is
geometrical in form and made without a drawn pattern. The variety of shirt
ornaments made by using the paški teg technique is achieved through the
combination of just a few standard, strictly geometrical motifs (small hollow
or filled circlets, smaller or bigger circles, semicircles, triangles, rhombi,
square or triangular leaves, zigzag stripes and the regular or irregular
four-leaf rosette, always outlined with small circles), alternating in
concentric circles on a reticular foundation.
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In the early twentieth century, the traditional costume came out of everyday
use, which brought intensive production to a halt. At the same time, vocational
schools were founded, such as the Lace-making school, established in Pag in
1906. In this school, lace-making was taught based on the Pag lacemakers’
skills used to make traditional costume ornaments, only these skills were here
used for the production of self-standing decorative objects. This work method
only is called Pag lace. It was used to make tablecloths, doilies,
handkerchiefs and decorations for parts of clothing – objects used in the
bourgeois society – as well as sacral textile.
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The decorative elements and production techniques of these objects were
skilfully transferred from traditional costumes and have retained their strict,
Renaissance geometry to the present. The women of Pag accept this work as a
source of additional income, which is often the only certain earning in the
meagre island economy. They still invest utmost patience and creativity into
their handwork and many of them can be called true artists.
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Lace-making on the island of Pag stagnated after the closure of schools and
workshops, but individual work has persisted to the present day and maintained
the continuity of an autochthonous skill. In the recent years, lace-making in
Pag is practiced mainly by women over 60. To preserve the tradition, a one-year
lacemaking course was initiated in Pag in 1995 and is attended every year by an
impressive number of young and middle-aged Pag women who will hopefully
continue the tradition of their mothers and grandmothers. Since 1998, the “Pag
Lacemakers’ Society Frane Budak” has also taken care of the promotion of the
Pag lace-making as an important segment of the Croatian cultural heritage.
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The making of Pag lace requires a small tightly-stuffed semicircular pillow, a
drawn pattern, a needle and white thread, and steady and always clean hands.
The pattern with small holes outlining the contours of the foundation is
fastened to the pillow. A thread is then drawn over the pattern in the shape of
cobweb, or the so-called free reticellas. Each radiating branch is crossed with
the needle and thread, which results in a firm skeleton. Around these threads
and starting from the centre, the pattern is buttonhole stitched between the
radiating branches of the net and individual decorative motives are built up in
concentric circles. As mentioned above, the lace has a strict geometrical
pattern prescribed by tradition, which means that the same ornament is found in
the original reticella on an old cotton shirt of a folk costume and the free
reticella of the decorative doily made today.
Pag lace is a decorative element appearing first in traditional textiles, and
later as an independent decorative object. While the production work methods
remained true to the canon of its origin – the strict Renaissance geometrical
design, its application changed over time: from the ornament on the linen
clothing of island women, to the interior decoration of bourgeois houses. These
changes made it possible to survive to the present day.
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